Today we went out to surf at Black's Beach and the call was supposed to be pretty big. I brought out my Doc and let Lee ride my Rusty which i won in a raffle two years ago from the best radio station ever, FM 94/9. (Shameless)
We paddled out and sat in the lineup for a while, Dave and i were chatting as we saw Lee struggling to paddle out through the bigger sets. A big wave starts to swell up and everyone starts paddling for the peak. I stay seated and watch to see if there's another wave coming.
A perfect peak forms a fifty feet ahead and there's no one to battle with. Just me and the wave......perfect.
I paddle hard and drop in on a pretty steep face headed right. (I'm regular footed by the way). I make a bottom turn and start to head up the face to turn. Instead, it pitches hard and barrels right over me and closes out. I immediately get thrown into the spin cycle and gasp to make up to the surface. I get on my board with the biggest smile and start to paddle back out and duck dive a few waves. I see Lee in the whitewash and he's yelling my name. Then, i see my baby.
The emotional feelings that i went through could probably be best illustrated with the effects of cocaine on an average user. An extreme high that lasts for a short duration until the crash sets in. Needless to say, the average coke head goes out and buys more coke when this happens. With this in mind, i decided to paddle back out and get one more.
did you photoshop that flower in there?
ReplyDeletei mean, sorry about your board :[
no photoshop. funny story about that flower.
ReplyDeleteI was walking around the neighborhood with a pair of scissors and i ran across the guy who works at the taco shop. After chatting with him for a few minutes. he asked me if i had a job. i told him no. he said, wait a minute. it's wednesday afternoon. you have no job and you are walking around cutting flowers to put under a fake grave you made out of a broken surfboard? ......yeah.......uhhh. i gotta go...