7.31.2008

Tokyo Rundown


Tokyo is a machine.  The city itself breathes with a perfect breath.  The subway system is unrivaled with 9 metro lines, 4 toei lines and a JR train that together blanket the city in a gnarled mess that leaves nothing within tokyo less than a kilometer away.  Any other ground to cover is usually done by bike.  There are millions of bikes in the city and not a single one has a lock.  Tokyo is best thought of a many cities that grew together because the different downtown areas all have such different vibes.  The first spot we hit was the Ginza district.  There, Dakota found a fresh food market in which he became infatuated with.  The best part of a market like that is the ease of getting common food.  Although Tokyo is pretty tourist friendly, there is much  difficulty getting any kind of menus in english or at least with pictures.  Many a time, we would sit down at a place, grab menu and point to the second least expensive item and smile as the waiter would take our order.  Ten minutes later, the waiter would bring back cold noodles and soy sauce with a small piece of fish in some smelly sauce.  Delicious.  
After spending some time in the  Ginza area, we hopped on the train and walked amongst the financial district towers looming over
 the streets.  Many common brand names like Toshiba and Sony adorned these buildings which stood so high.  The one obvious thing about the city is the lack of public trash cans.  It's a bit strange because despite the lack of trash cans, no one litters.  Next spot was the Harajuku district.  
After years of wearing conservative school uniforms, these kids are reacting by wearing the most ridiculous gear possible.  They all dress so differently that it would be impossible to pinpoint exactly what they wear.  There are obvious influences like the punker kids, the goths, the little girl style, the crazy hair kids, the rockabilly kids.  All the different kids just wear the clothes without a care for any of the meaning behind it.  It's beyond anything i have ever seen.  
Dakota and i saw a harajuku bazaar and dropped in to check it out. 
 The seven story shop teemed with life.  There were harajuku girls screaming sales pitches at every shop. The sights and sounds in this place were too much for two Americans to handle.  It was absolute madness.  We proceeded up and we were met by the same thing on every floor.            
Ridiculous kids selling ridiculous clothes to other ridiculous kids.  What a world this is.  

A few days later we decided to go to Yoyogi park which borders the Harajuku district because on Sundays the park is supposed to go off. 
 Wherever i heard or read that was dead on.   There were street performers of all kinds.  The most memorable were these five rockabilly guys who were dancing in leather and boots.  The leader wore a white leather jacket with no shirt underneath and pranced around like a rooster among chickens.  
We walked on and  saw a few local bands playing on the sidewalk no more than fifty feet from each other.  There were all battling for the passing youth's attention.  Soon after, we stumbled upon a drum circle.  An old man was drumming  smiling a tooth-less
grin as the women danced in a wild frenzy.  The next stop
 was a young guy who had set up a wearable dj outfit in which he simultaneously danced, dj'ed, 
and painted.   If there was one standup thing about this kid, it was this.  He had passion.  You could see the fire in his eyes and it glowed outward and shined on the crowd.  He would play a beat and jump around a bit as he made smooth brush strokes on the canvas.  He would stop the music and face the crowd, scratch a bit and resume the music to start over again.  Other notable acts were the jumprope breakdancing crew and Sapporo Man.  Sapporo Man was this really queer man in a white suit and yellow rain boots.  His performance was that he would pose for a moment and strange noises would erupt from his mouth.  Nothing too exciting.  
For the remaining days in Tokyo, we stuck around the Taito-ku district and saw the markets and temples of the area.  I drank from the public bath and bathed in the incense smoke that bellowed from the altar.  I threw a few hundred yen in the collection box and snapped a few shots of an odd looking fellow.  Just across the street, there was a woman who had trained a monkey to do tricks.  He caught small rings and walked on little monkey stilts.   His finale trick was jumping through a hoop held almost shoulder high on the woman.  
After we packed our things and got ready to go, we headed to the train station with three hours to spare.  As we jumped our our longest and final train to Narita Airport, it soon became apparent that we weren't going to make it on time.  Our train was stopping at every public stop and we had 40 minutes and 17 more stations to go.  I scanned the train and saw a black guy speaking with a Japanese guy in the corner.  He explained what we did wrong and advised us to get off on the next stop.  We boarded the right train and went straight through customs and got our boarding passes.  We had ten minutes to get through immigration.  I spotted some white kids and asked them to cut.  They let us in and i humored them with the usual "where are you from" bullshit.  We got on the plane to Thailand and Dakota let out a cheer.

7.18.2008

Finding Our Tokyo Hostel


I'm going to cut a lot of bullshit and say that the plane ride to Tokyo is not as bad as I thought it was going to be.  However, eleven hours of being confined to a small seat watching Drillbit Taylor in Japanese subtitles is not my favorite way to party.   As soon as we exited the plane, something in the air felt different.  About 85% different.  The humidity in Asia is beyond anything that I have ever experienced.  It affects every little thing and just nags at your body.  Your pants start to stick to your legs, your shirt clings to your back, even your brain thinks differently in such weather.  
As much as I tried to read up on Japan, nothing could have prepared me for the sights and sounds of Tokyo on that Friday night.  After Dakota and I boarded the Kesei Line leaving the airport, it just so happened that the guys next to us were going to the same hostel.  They were both older men from India there on business.  I glanced at one of their suitcase tags and it read " Dr. Abhijat Sarin"  I glanced at them and thought that these guys are probably the recipients of outsourced American  jobs.  I smiled and laughed to myself.  We headed out of the train at Minowa station and made it outside when suddenly an old man fell down while riding his bike.  When i say old man, I'm talking really old.  An American his age would have been taken away on a stretcher after a fall like that.  He just got up, dusted himself off and kept on cruising along without a problem.  Immediately Dr. Sarin and his colleague began asking every person every fifteen feet where our hostel was.  We had some guy call the place, some bum try to lead us there, and another guy who got really excited that we were from San Diego.  So after about half an hour of this we start getting close when one of the guys who helped us rides by and starts pointing in a direction.  Sarin is busy asking a delivery boy and doesn't see him.  He rides away and then comes back and starts yelling at us to follow his directions.  We get to the room and it's even hotter and more humid than outside.  After some ice cold showers and a quick change, we were out to check out the streets of the Taito-Ku district.  After visiting some of the other Tokyo spots, i'm pretty sure that Taito-Ku might be one of the ghetto-er districts.  After wandering around aimlessly for a bit, we run into these 17 year old French kids harassing a Japanese officer.  They were jumping around him and making monkey noises while he was standing there doing nothing.  Next, one of the kids started running alongside a moped.  The driver got mad and swerved to try to hit him but missed.  Next thing we knew some police officers showed up on bikes after they got a call.  Dakota and I promptly left the scene.  We ended up in some sports bar that was really big on Zima and darts.  Kinda strange.  
Anyways the funniest thing that happened was while Dakota was chugging a beer in street.  He had just finished downing it and walked over to a trash can by some guy when all of a sudden he farted really loud.  I don't think that words could do any justice to how gross/hilarious it was.  I mean, it was probably the loudest fart i have ever heard and the guy did it so nonchalantly that he just kept walking away while we were uncontrollably laughing.
Pretty much, we made it back but realized that we had only eaten chips and beer the whole night.  Awesome first day outside the country.